Saltwater Buddha

A Surfers Quest to Find Zen on the Sea (Large Print 16pt)

Author: Mu Soeng,Jaimal Yogis

Publisher: ReadHowYouWant.com

ISBN: 1458783863

Category:

Page: 192

View: 6715

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Fed up with teenage life, Jaimal Yogis ran off to Hawaii with little more than a copy of Hermann Hesse's Siddharth a and enough cash for a surfboard. His journey is a coming-of-age saga that takes him from communes to monasteries, from the warm Pacific to the icy New York shore. Equal parts spiritual memoir and surfer's tale, this is a chronicle of finding meditative focus in the barrel of a wave and eternal truth in the great salty blue.

Saltwater Buddha

A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea

Author: Jaimal Yogis

Publisher: Simon and Schuster

ISBN: 0861719980

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 200

View: 3471

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Fed up with teenage life in the suburbs, Jaimal Yogis ran off to Hawaii with little more than a copy of Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha and enough cash for a surfboard. His journey is a coming-of-age saga that takes him from communes to monasteries, from the warm Pacific to the icy New York shore. Equal parts spiritual memoir and surfer's tale, this is a chronicle of finding meditative focus in the barrel of a wave and eternal truth in the great salty blue.

Saltwater Buddha

A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea

Author: Jaimal Yogis

Publisher: Simon and Schuster

ISBN: 0861715357

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 238

View: 431

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Chronicles the author's teenage journey to Hawaii, where he applied the principles of Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha to his surfing adventures, an effort that eventually took him to the shores of New York and the monasteries of France in search of a better understanding of the spiritual nature of the sport. Original.

Caught Inside

A Surfer's Year on the California Coast

Author: Daniel Duane

Publisher: Macmillan

ISBN: 9780865475090

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 256

View: 5309

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Recounts a year of surfing in California, shares observations on Pacific shore ecology, and looks at the history of the state and surfing

The Fear Project

What Our Most Primal Emotion Taught Me About Survival, Success, Surfing . . . an d Love

Author: Jaimal Yogis

Publisher: Rodale Books

ISBN: 1609611764

Category: Self-Help

Page: 272

View: 6821

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An epic adventure full of incredible characters, death-defying athletic achievement, and bleeding edge science, The Fear Project began with one question: how can we overcome our fears to reach our full potential? Who among us has not been paralyzed by fear? In The Fear Project, award-winning journalist and surfer Jaimal Yogis sets out to better understand fear-why does it so often dominate our lives, what makes it tick, and is there even a way to use it to our advantage? In the process, he plunges readers into great white shark-infested waters, brings them along to surf 40+ foot waves in the dead of winter, and gives them access to some of the world's best neuroscience labs, psychologists, and extreme athletes. In this entertaining, often laugh-out-loud narrative, Yogis also treats himself like a guinea pig for all of his research, pushing his own fears repeatedly to the limits-in his sport, in his life, and in love. Ultimately, Yogis shares with his readers the best strategies to emerge triumphant from even the most paralyzing of fears. The Fear Project gives you insight into: - How fear evolved in the human brain - How to tell the difference between "good fear" and "bad fear" - How to use the latest neuroscience to transform fear memories - Why fear spreads between us and how to counteract fearful "group think" - How to turn fear into a performance enhancer - athletically and at work In pursuing this terrifying-and often thrilling-journey with Yogis, we learn how to move through fear and unlock a sense of renewed possibility and a more rewarding life.

Surfer's Code - 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life

Author: Shaun Tomson,Patrick Moser

Publisher: Penguin Random House South Africa

ISBN: 0143527185

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 107

View: 8143

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Surfing has been described as a sport, a religion, an obsession and a way of life. For Shaun Tomson, world champion surfer and successful entrepreneur, surfing is all of that and more. In Surfer's Code, Tomson shares the life lessons he's gathered over many years of surfing - from his boyhood in South Africa to the World Tour in the 70s and 80s. While the lessons Tomson shares are taken from beaches all over the world, they translate powerfully to everyday life and the extraordinary challenges we face. They reflect the attitude and outlook necessary to survive not only the ups and downs of life, but to master them and emerge a winner. His lessons include: I will never turn my back on the ocean; I will always paddle back out; I will watch out for other surfers; there will always be another wave; I will catch a wave every day.

All Our Waves Are Water

Stumbling Toward Enlightenment and the Perfect Ride

Author: Jaimal Yogis

Publisher: HarperCollins

ISBN: 0062405209

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 272

View: 488

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In this meditative memoir—a compelling fusion of Barbarian Days and the journals of Thomas Merton—the author of Saltwater Buddha reflects on his "failing toward enlightenment," his continued search to find meaning and a greater understanding of grace in the world’s oceans as well as everyday life. Born to a family of seekers, Jaimal Yogis left home at sixteen to surf in Hawaii and join a monastery—an adventure he chronicled in Saltwater Buddha. Now, in his early twenties, his heart is broken and he’s lost his way. Hitting the road again, he lands in a monastery in Dharamsala, where he meets Sonam, a displaced Tibetan. To help his friend, Jaimal makes a cockamamie attempt to reunite him with his family in Tibet by way of America. Though he does not succeed, witnessing Sonam’s spirit in the face of failure offers Jaimal a deeper understanding of faith. When the two friends part, he cannot fathom the unlikely circumstances that will reunite them. All Our Waves Are Water follows Jaimal’s trek from the Himalayas to Indonesia; to a Franciscan Friary in New York City to the dusty streets of Jerusalem; and finally to San Francisco’s Ocean Beach. Along his journey, Jaimal prays and surfs; mourning a lost love and seeking something that keeps eluding him. The poet Rumi wrote, "We are not a drop in the ocean. We are the ocean in a drop." All Our Waves Are Water is Jaimal’s "attempt to understand the ocean in a drop, to find that one moon shining in the water everywhere"—to find the mystery that unites us.

Surf Is Where You Find It

Author: Gerry Lopez

Publisher: Patagonia

ISBN: 1938340256

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 240

View: 990

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Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.

West of Jesus

Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief

Author: Steven Kotler

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA

ISBN: 9781596918351

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 272

View: 4733

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After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind. Kotler, not a religious man, suddenly found himself drawn to the sport of surfing as if it were the cornerstone of a new faith. Why, he wondered, when there was nothing left to believe in, could he begin to believe in something as unlikely as surfing? What was belief anyway? How did it work in the body, the brain, our culture, and human history? With the help of everyone from rebel surfers to rocket scientists, Kotler undertakes a three-year globetrotting quest. The results are a startling mix of big waves and bigger ideas: a surfer's journey into the biological underpinnings of belief itself.

Scratching the Horizon

A Surfing Life

Author: Izzy Paskowitz,Daniel Paisner

Publisher: St. Martin's Press

ISBN: 1250023998

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 304

View: 1661

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A bitchin' love letter to sand and sea, and a spirited inside account of life with the "first family" of American surfing In 1956, Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz stepped away from a successful medical practice and began a lifelong surfing odyssey that grew to include his wife Juliette, and their nine children. Together, the Paskowitz clan lived a vagabonding bohemian existence, eschewing material possessions in favor of intangible riches like health and good cheer . . . all the while careening along the world's coastlines in search of the perfect wave. In Scratching the Horizon, Izzy Paskowitz looks back at his unusual upbringing, and his lifelong passion for the sport that carries his family's stamp. As the fourth-oldest child in a family of inveterate surfers, rock stars, and beach bums, he is uniquely qualified to shine a light on a childhood that has come to symbolize the surfing credo, a reckless young adulthood that nearly cost him his sanity, and a maturing sense of self and purpose that allows him to lift others on the back of his experience. As the father of a son with autism and the founder of "Surfers Healing," a foundation devoted to expanding the horizons of children with autism through surfing, Paskowitz has found a way to connect the surreal aspects of his childhood to the harsh realities of adulthood, and he shares these discoveries in this wickedly entertaining and transforming memoir.

Ghost Wave

The Discovery of Cortes Bank and the Biggest Wave on Earth

Author: Chris Dixon

Publisher: Chronicle Books

ISBN: 1452110093

Category: Travel

Page: 272

View: 4002

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Rising from the depths of the North Pacific lies a fabled island, now submerged just 15 feet below the surface of the ocean. Rumors and warnings about Cortes Bank abound, but among big wave surfers, this legendary rock is famous for one simple (and massive) reason: this is the home of the biggest rideable wave on the face of the earth. In this dramatic work of narrative non-fiction, journalist Chris Dixon unlocks the secrets of Cortes Bank and pulls readers into the harrowing world of big wave surfing and high seas adventure above the most enigmatic and dangerous rock in the sea. The true story of this Everest of the sea will thrill anyone with an abiding curiosity of and respect for mother ocean.

Kook

What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave

Author: Peter Heller

Publisher: Simon and Schuster

ISBN: 1439171815

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 336

View: 1805

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Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave— that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.

Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell

A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing

Author: Chas Smith

Publisher: Harper Collins

ISBN: 0062202545

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 256

View: 9260

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A finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore—a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime. For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu’s paradisiacal North Shore in pursuit of some of the greatest waves on earth for surfing’s Triple Crown competition. Chas Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy, laid-back strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca. Smith captures this exciting and dangerous place where locals, outsiders, the surf industry, and criminal elements clash in a fascinating look at class, race, power, money, and crime, set within one of the most beautiful places on earth. The result is a breathtaking blend of crime and adventure that captures the allure and wickedness of this idyllic golden world.

The History of Surfing

Author: Matt Warshaw

Publisher: Chronicle Books

ISBN: 1452100942

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: N.A

View: 9474

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Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.

Women Who Surf

Charging Waves with the World's Best

Author: Ben Marcus,Lucia Griggi

Publisher: Rowman & Littlefield

ISBN: 1493024868

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 248

View: 6612

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Mavericks and more, a celebration of feminine beauty, athleticism, wisdom, and skill when the surf is bombing—Women Who Surf profiles some of the world’s most inspiring female surfers ranging from Bethany Hamilton to Wrenna Delgado. Each surfer tells her story, highlighting her personal challenges, accomplishments, and philosophy, as well as inspiring readers and providing them with practical how-to suggestions on maximizing not only their own potential in surfing but in life as they lead the charge and push their limits at infamous big-wave spots like Teahupoo in Tahiti, Waimea Bay, and Peahi/Jaws in the Hawaiian Islands. The profiles by accomplished author and editor Ben Marcus are complemented by stunning color photography by leading adventure photojournalist Lucia Griggi. Featured surfers: 1. Rochelle Ballard 2. Wrenna Delgado 3. Bethany Hamilton 4. Maya Gabeira 5. Keala Kennelly 6. Andrea Moller 7. Leah Dawson 8. Mercedes Maidana 9. Easkey Britton 10. Alana Blanchard 11. Bianca Valenti 12. Paige Alms 13. Alison Teal 14. Sally Fitzgibbons 15. Rosy Hodge 16. Janet Macpherson 17. Pauline Ado

In Search of Captain Zero

A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road

Author: Alan C. Weisbecker

Publisher: Tarcher

ISBN: 9781585421770

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 352

View: 1759

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A surfer, photojournalist, and author describes his two-year odyssey from Mexico to Central America to search for his missing long-time friend and surfing companion, Christopher Conner, and his bizarre adventures along the way.

Barbarian Days

A Surfing Life

Author: William Finnegan

Publisher: Penguin

ISBN: 0143109391

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 464

View: 9631

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Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses -- off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves.

Making Mavericks

Author: Frosty Hesson,Ian Spiegelman

Publisher: Zola Books

ISBN: 1939126002

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: N.A

View: 2377

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West Coast surfing legend Frosty Hesson shares his remarkable life story, the story of his extraordinary friendship with wunderkind Jay Moriarty, and his advice on how to be the best. When Richard “Frosty” Hesson was first approached by a young Jay Moriarty in 1990, the skinny kid with a sparkle in his eye only wanted one thing from the icon: his help in becoming a better surfer. Hesson, one of the first to conquer the huge waves off northern California known as Mavericks, recognized that the kid “had a vision.” Jay quickly demonstrated a resolve that reminded Frosty of his younger self, pursuing his goal with a seriousness far beyond his years. His attitude and work ethic earned Frosty’s respect and, eventually, his friendship. Making Mavericks is the inspiring story of their father-son bond and of the challenges that made each of them who they were—surf legends, and the subject of the upcoming film Chasing Mavericks. In Making Mavericks, Frosty talks about his turbulent youth spent under difficult circumstances, with parents who tried to find a positive way to handle a child with a passion for water and a disregard for his own safety. Throughout his life he developed principles to live by, principles that would become the core tenets of his teaching philosophy. Most significantly, Frosty talks about how one of his best students, Jay Moriarty, used his philosophy to become a surfing phenomenon, and whose life inspired the phrase, “Live like Jay.” Affecting and poignant, Making Mavericks is a celebration of Hesson’s determination to live with joy and purpose, and his desire to help others do the same.

The Encyclopedia of Surfing

Author: Matt Warshaw

Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt

ISBN: 9780156032513

Category: Reference

Page: 788

View: 827

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A pop culture reference of surfing in America today contains 1,500 alphabetical entries and three hundred illustrations to review the activity's most significant contributors, events, equipment, culture, and history. Reprint.

The Kook's Guide to Surfing

The Ultimate Instruction Manual: How to Ride Waves with Skill, Style, and Etiquette

Author: Jason Borte

Publisher: Skyhorse Publishing, Inc.

ISBN: 1626364567

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 240

View: 9241

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Move over, dude! The Kook’s Guide to Surfing shows what it means to be a real surfer. This clever, often hilarious guide shares with kooks (those guys on surfboards who just don’t get it yet) the truths and know-how of a lifelong wave-lover. The secret: surfing responsibly and sharing the waves. You don’t have to be “too cool for school” to be cool in the water. But surfing like a pro isn’t just about courtesy, and neither is The Kook’s Guide to Surfing. The ultimate guide to great surfing, it’s got tips on choosing the right board for the right wave, stances and paddling, avoiding injuries and staying safe, and—once all that has been mastered—how and where to show off your skills in the big competitions. Other topics include: First lessons and helpful tips Physical fitness Types of waves Surf etiquette Buying surfboards An index of the best surf locations Filled with witty illustrations, a glossary of surfing terminology, and fun “Hey, Kook!” trivia, The Kook’s Guide to Surfing will turn even the greenest beginners into knockout surfing pros.